Wednesday 10 June 2009

Too close crocodile - Namibe desert, part three

This is our camp, at least part of it. I could stay there for a month...


The day after, we went looking for more animals, expecting to see more gazela and onix too (what we saw, you will find out only next post: prepare yourself, really). While waiting for the breakfast to be ready, I sat to admire the river. This dune is 250m high, but the picture unfortunately is never good enough to show things that are too magnificent...


Beside our camp, we could see a crocodile. Tiny picture, but I swear he's sunbathing on that sand "island", try a closer look. We looked for more but we were already lucky to see it - Jack and Franz (out guides) told us this was the first time tourists saw a crocodile. We looked for it again the following days, but found nothing...


Don't believe me? Look at the track :)

Tuesday 9 June 2009

Alapandula! - Namibe desert, part two



Still on the first day, going to our camp, we passed through little houses made of wood sticks, in the shape of an iglu. Our guide told us they were from the Mucubal people, a group who doesn't have contact with what we call "civilization" and live from meat and milk from the cows they have.
Way further, after seeing only houses but nobody, we finally saw a little group from a short distance. They saw us, and started hiding very quickly. Jack told us we could stop, if we wanted, and reach them. Honestly I didn't know if it was a good idea, they seemed scared and I didn't want to frighten them even more, but the idea of going there seemed too amazing to reject. We stopped.
I was the first to jump off the car, with a bottle of water. In front of the small group, two men, the first one with such a big knife that made me re-think the idea of going there. I put my head a bit down, and offered the water (they have to walk a whole day to get it from the Kunene river), waiting for him to make a move. He accepted, and smiled. The perfect sign, the international comunication which has just the same meaning everywhere: the smile.
After seeing that it was ok, two women came, a single one (marked because of a fabric square-structure on her head) and the mother. They both had golden bracelets on both ankles, used to count the number of cows they have. The society is matriarchal, and the woman is the figure that holds the power - the cattle. Because of that, she can have as many husbands as she wants.
They were very curious with us, and after a few minutes that the two women came, children started to come too, they were hiding behind rocks and trees. The view of that was fantastic, they were so curious with our clothing, our equipment, our skin. One of the kids came behind me just to touch my calf, and she hid quickly when I looked to see what was happening. We were strange, we were weird for them.



They were amazed with the cameras, specially after we showed them what they were for. They don't have mirrors, so seeing your own face somewhere it's not a river must be at least quite peculiar.
Besides the water, we gave the children pieces of a chocolate cake we had on the car. I couldn't stop thinking about what must taste something like chocolate cake for someone who is used to eat meat and drink milk only. Unfortunately, that I could not ask, but they seemed to like it.
One adding: if you are wondering how the women got the fabric they use, here's the answer: from time to time, one man from a nearby city, who speaks their language, goes there to trade a few cows for fabric. This is the only contact they have with other people, and I guess they had never seen white people before.

The title of this post comes from the only word we could learn on their language, "alapandula". It means "thank you".

Monday 8 June 2009

Namibe Desert, part one


Here I start a serie of posts about my last trip here in Angola: a 6-day journey to the desert of Namibe. During the posts you will understand why it was one of the best experiences of my life.
We were eight people in two 4x4 Land Rovers who could, really, climb walls. After a few kilometers we went off-road, and saw plenty of Welwitwschia mirabilis, which is a flesh-eating plant that can reach 2m square (or even more) know as "the plant of the desert". It can live for a thousand years.
The view changes from minute to minute in our way to the place would be our camp, beside Kunene river.
I will never forget the time I saw the first gazela. Seeing an animal in his habitat is priceless, and can never be compaired to a journey to the zoo (which is also very educative). The gazela is amazingly classic, elegant and inocent at the very same time, jumping like a happy kid. It is for sure a crying scene.